The Modern Figure

1917

Milady's Boudoir

The modern corset for the beauty figures is a bit higher busted, and curves in a wee bit more at the waist than they have for a decade past, but the finished effect is one of suppleness and natural curves. Anything like rigidity or the stiffness caused by tight lacing is avoided and the new corset is quite as comfortable as the almost boneless model, reaching just above the waistline, which the "natural figure" demanded. Figures are better taken care of by the corset, which offers a little support to the bust and rises just high enough above the waistline not to cut into the flesh when its wearer bends or sits, as the very low girdle corset was apt to do.

This support of the bust is essential in the new basque frock or the snug-fitting girdle dividing bodice and skirt. If they are fitted over a low-bust corset, the unsupported bust bulges over the upper edge and gives a bad line.

The brassiere is an important adjunct to the modern figure, for the new corset-covers of net and chiffon are soft and transparent and something must be worn to hide the corset and break the top line. If the outer blouse is not of transparent stuff, brassieres and corset-cover may be combined in one garment. The material must be firm enough to hold the figure, but under the blouse or chiffon bodice, which demands an equally flimsy corset cover, must be worn a little brassiere of one sort or another.


Every Day Etiquette

"When a new employee comes into the office and is introduced to me, should I rise and shake hands or simply acknowledge the introduction while sitting?" inquired Mabel, the stenographer.

"It is a business affair. You should certainly rise but need not shake hands unless he extends his hand to you. A courteous bow is only necessary in such cases," said her older business friend.

Teach Your Children to Obey

1917

Our Boys and Girls

A fault, often laid to the mother, is the habit of unnecessary fault finding or nagging. One reason many mothers have so little influence with their children, is the habit of insisting on non-essentials. They make a fuss about trifles and lay down the law on points that are of no great consequence, like the kind of stockings or gloves they may wear, and then, when there is reason to protest against some really wrong course, they have used up all their force on unimportant details and their words carry no weight with the child.

You cannot begin too early, however, to teach your children to obey. If there is occasional rebellion it should be checked immediately, although I think if a child is taught obedience from earliest infancy, the idea of revolt will never present itself as possible.


Every Day Etiquette

"When sending a dinner invitation to a husband and wife, to which one is it addressed " inquired Fred.
"To the wife of course," said his sister.

There isn't a whole lot of difference between putting a man on, and tipping him off.

A Street Incident and Royalty

1896

A significant circumstance occurred during a visit of the Emperor of Germany to England. The kaiser was for one day the guest of the lord mayor, and the city of London received him and several of the queen's children on that day.

The old city was splendidly decorated, and set for a great public function. The streets from Buckingham palace to the lord mayor's mansion were lined with infantry and cavalry, back of whom was a solid mass of people.

Between these lines the royal carriages slowly passed. They moved in almost absolute silence, save for the perfunctory salutes of the soldiery. The queen was not present, and for mere royalty as royalty, there was apparently no popular feeling save that of curiosity.

When, however, the carriage of the Princess of Wales appeared, and her sweet, kind face was seen, the applause grew enthusiastic. Suddenly a burst of cheers was heard, as a low, black wagon came swiftly down the thronged street. It was the ambulance of a hospital, which has precedence everywhere, carrying some wounded man to receive succor. The crowd paid homage to charity in a sincere though inappropriate fashion.

In it was a hint which the scions of the ruling families of Europe present should have understood. Queen Victoria knows that her people pay allegiance to her more as a wise, good woman, wife and mother than as one of the House of Hanover.

"The divinity which doth hedge a king" must now have its bases in humanity and personal respect rather than in descent or etiquette.


Standardize the Bike

A proposition has been made recently by bicycle riders to several agents and manufacturers of bicycles that the manufacturers get together in a convention and agree to reduce numerous parts of their different machines to standard proportions.

Leave Taking When Visiting Someone

1902

A little nicety of leave-taking that is practiced by a certain well-bred woman, says the Dundee News, is to rise to end the visit while she is the speaker. In this way she is apparently leaving while she is much interested.

This is better than to start at the end of a pause, or to jump up the moment your hostess's voice drops. One way implies boredom; the other waiting for a chance to get away. This may seem a trifle of observance, but it is worth while if only to train one's self in the habit of easy leave-taking -- a rare accomplishment even among women with wide social experience. Once standing, leave promptly, and avoid spinning out a second visit in the hall.

Etiquette — "When a Guest, When Do You Retire for the Night?"

1910

Delicate Point at Issue

Whether Guest or Hostess Should Make First Move for Retiring for the Night

Until the end of time it will probably be a mooted question whether guest or hostess should make the first move for retiring for the night. When staying in a house for the first time this is one of the most difficult points for a guest to decide, and it takes a great deal of tact and discernment to arrive at a correct conclusion.

In the summer house at country or seashore the chances are, if the host goes to town for business every day, that the whole household is up early. The hostess is certainly, as a rule, if her husband is a business man. In that case it is almost essential that they go to bed early. Logical as this conclusion may seem, a guest fears to suggest going too early to her own room, lest she should seem to be bored during the evening, and thus it is, when both really would like to turn in at a reasonable hour, they and others are kept up by a desperate attempt to be polite.

If any rule of procedure may be laid down for a stranger in the house it is to find out, as soon as possible, at what time breakfast is served and when the host goes to town. It is a safe method, if he goes early, and especially if breakfast is served for all at an early hour, to suggest retiring by ten o'clock at the latest, and in more than one household in the summer the same people who turn night into day in the winter go to their rooms by nine o'clock in the evening. It is better for guests to err on the side of going too soon than too late, for nothing will make strangers more unpopular than to overturn the comfortable habits of the household.

Host and hostess are not required to go to their own rooms because guests may have retired to theirs, but they are obliged to stay up if the stranger makes no move to retire.

It is by no means difficult, even for a person making a first visit, to suggest retiring. She may say that she is tired from having been so much out of doors, or that the heat is rather trying, or any other such simple excuse as may come into her mind, and declare that she would like to retire. She makes her good-nights then at once, and the host and hostess are at liberty to follow their usual customs.

Is It Good Manners To Serve All The Ladies First?

1920

YOUR MANNERS.

It Is Correct.

To lay the knives at the right of the plate with the sharp edges in.

To lay the soup spoon next to the knives away from the plate.

To lay the oyster fork next to the soup spoon.

To place the glasses at the right of the plate.

To use a tumbler or goblet for water.


It Is Not Correct.

To type the names on place cards.

For a servant waiting on the table to invite guests to partake of the food.

To remove dishes from the table by stacking them one above the other.

To serve the same person last at each course of a dinner.

To serve all the ladies first except at a small dinner where the host does the carving.

Wives Going Through Their Husbands' Pockets and Other Humor

Humor, 1908
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One Woman's Wrongs.
Mrs. Smallpurse (who found only a few dimes in her husband's pockets that morning)—I am just sick of this plodding along year after year. Why don't you do something to make money?
Mr. Smallpurse—I can't make any more than a living at my business, no matter how hard I work.
Mrs. Smallpurse—Then do something else. Invent something. Any American can invent.
Mr. Smallpurse (some months after) —My dear, I've hit it, and I've got a patent. My fortune is made.
Mrs. Smallpurse (delighted)—Isn't that grand! What did you invent?
Mr. Smallpurse—I have invented a barbed-wire safety pocket for husbands. — New York Weekly.

Wiser.
"He's been in Paris for a year, I believe. He must be very wealthy."
"Well, he used to have more money than he knew what to do with."
"You mean he isn't as wealthy as he was?"
"Oh, no; I mean he has been in Paris long enough to acquire more knowledge."

Documentary Evidence.
Her Mother—I should rather you would not go sailing with that young man, Clara; I don't believe he knows a thing about a sailboat.
Clara—Oh, but he does, mamma; he showed me a letter of recommendation from a New York firm he used to work for, and they speak very highly of his salesmanship.—The Circle.

A New Excuse.
"I suppose your husband is proud to contribute his share toward the support of our beautiful library?" "Yes," answered the woman with the slightly acid expression; "only John was none too industrious in the first place and now he's tempted to put in most of his time reading novels and trying to get his money's worth." —Washington Star.

The Telephone Girl's Amendment.
Said the business man with a grouch against the telephone central:
"One day I was calling a number and said, 'Get me on four hundred so and so.' The girl said, 'Fourteen-hundred so-and-so?' So the next time I called the number I thought I'd be forehanded.
"I said, 'Get me fourteen-hundred so-and-so.' And the girl asked, 'One four- oh-oh so-and-so'."

Didn't Need It.
Agent—Here's a book that will be welcome in every family. It contains all the rules of etiquette and directions for avoiding slips in grammar.
Hiram Grasscutt—Don't need nothin' of that kind. Got a daughter hum from boardin' school, a son goin' to high school an' a hired man who's a college feller workin' fer his health. But, by jing, partner, it's a relief to talk once in a while to a common, ordinary person. I don't need the book, but I'm darned glad you called.

It's All Right, Then.
She—You have kissed other girls, haven't you?
He—Yes; but no one that you know. — Harper's Weekly.

Many a man is buried in oblivion long before he is dead.

After calling a prisoner down the judge is apt to send him up.

--The Bayard Advocate, Bayard, Iowa, March 26, 1908.